Arriving at Tombstone Territorial Park by helicopter felt like being dropped into a different world altogether. The jagged peaks of the Ogilvie Mountains rose all around me, sharp and dramatic, like something out of The Lord of the Rings. I landed directly at Talus Lake Campground, one of the most sought-after backcountry sites in the park, and stepping out onto the tundra felt like walking onto the set of a fantasy film — raw, untouched, and utterly wild.


From Talus Lake, I spent my time hiking to Divide Lake Campground. The route between the two is rugged and demanding, but the views along the way made every step worth it. Divide Lake sits in a spectacular basin with some of the best vantage points of Tombstone Mountain itself. Hiking between these two campgrounds gave me a chance to really experience the scale of the park without having to tackle the long and grueling approach from the highway.

Getting to Tombstone isn't simple. It's tucked far north, close to the Alaska border, and the Canadian government strictly limits access to preserve the fragile landscape. The camping pads at Talus, Divide, and Grizzly Lakes are notoriously hard to secure — as soon as the booking system opens at the beginning of the year, everything sells out almost instantly. Flying in by helicopter, as I did, is one option; the other is a strenuous multi-day hike from the Dempster Highway, which is beautiful but long, challenging, and not without the risk of running into bears along the way.

Once inside the designated campgrounds, though, things feel remarkably safe. The sites are located at higher elevations where bears are rarely seen, and each campground is well set up with tent pads, cooking shelters, and food storage to keep wildlife at bay. Standing there among the jagged peaks, with the light constantly shifting across the valleys and ridges, I felt small — but also deeply grateful to be in one of the most remote and spectacular places in Canada.

• Glissade Pass: This is the big one, the one hikers often mention when going between Grizzly Lake and Divide Lake. It involves a sharp elevation gain (some sources mention ~300-400 m in one kilometer on steep slopes).
• Tombstone Pass: Another named pass used in day hikes. For example, there is a trail that goes above Divide Lake and over Tombstone Pass, giving views of the Tombstone and Cloudy ranges.
• Auston Pass: This is less central to the classic three-lake loop, but is a beautiful pass in the Blackstone Range, moving toward Syenite Lakes to the south. The trail up to Auston Pass is long (approx 21 km return in one description) and gives you time on an alpine plateau.

• Grizzly Lake Campground: Typically your entry point into the backcountry loop. The hike in is strenuous but scenery builds gradually. This campground has tent pads, cooking shelters, outhouse, water sources etc.
• Divide Lake Campground: Between Grizzly and Talus, usually reached after going over Glissade Pass. One of the three backcountry camps. Offers similar amenities (tent platforms, cooking shelters etc.) and great views, especially of Tombstone Mountain from certain angles.
• Talus Lake Campground: The third backcountry campsite. If you can get into Talus, that can be a highlight — especially views of the Tombstone range and nearby lakes from that higher elevation.
• Tombstone Mountain Campground (road-accessible): If you drive up the Dempster-Highway and don't want or can't do the full backcountry trek, this campground is reachable by vehicle (or less hiking). It has more “front-country” conveniences.

Flying straight into Talus Lake Campground saved me days of strenuous hiking and let me start in the very heart of Tombstone's backcountry. From there, hiking to Divide Lake Campground was challenging but far more manageable than attempting the full multi-day trek from the highway. The trail between Talus and Divide crosses rugged terrain with constant elevation changes, but the reward is immense — Divide Lake offers some of the most iconic views of Tombstone Mountain, framed by sharp ridgelines and moody skies.


What stood out most to me was how quickly conditions changed. Even in summer, the weather could shift from sunshine to cold wind and mist in a matter of minutes. Layers and solid rain gear are essential — the mountains dictate the pace here, not you.


Securing a tent pad at Talus, Divide, or Grizzly Lake is the hardest part of the trip. Reservations open early each year and sell out almost immediately, so planning ahead is non-negotiable. The limited number of visitors means that once you're there, the park feels wonderfully uncrowded and pristine, which is rare in popular wilderness areas.


Bears are more of a concern on the long hike in from the Dempster Highway, but at the higher elevation camps like Talus and Divide, sightings are extremely rare. The campgrounds are well-equipped with designated cooking areas and food storage, which makes staying there feel both safe and respectful of the environment.


If you're after remote wilderness, flying in gives you direct access to the most spectacular scenery without the physical toll of the full hike. Still, it's not an easy trip — the rugged terrain, unpredictable weather, and sheer remoteness demand preparation and respect. But for me, standing among those jagged peaks with my camera, it was pure magic — the kind of place that reminds you just how vast and wild the north still is.

Yours Truly